Wine Writing 101

If you want to write well about wine, go to where the wine is.

Karen McNeil

Social lubricant or scientific object of study? Agricultural product or nectar of the Gods? No matter your perspective, there is an awful lot of writing about the subject of wine once you start looking for it. Not only is the amount of wine writing quite extensive, nowadays it comes in many formats, genres, and across many platforms. Books about wine travel, wine encyclopedias, memoires describing a life in the world of wine, technical manuals for winemakers, wine journals, wine blogs, biographies of winemakers, historical accounts of wine’s beginnings, numerous magazines focusing on the role of the sommelier or the wine business to name just a few. And finally, the type of writing most commonly associated with wine criticism, the wine review or tasting note.

In an article in the World of Fine Wine magazine in 2013, Barry Smith contemplated the increasing abundance of writing about wine in both print and online outlets to appear in recent years. In the past decade alone, there have been essays proclaiming the death of the wine critic, articles documenting empirical research that details how easily and frequently wine experts are fooled, essays describing the fraudulent practices of some suspicious wine merchants, feature articles reassessing the future of being a sommelier, monographs that call attention to the esoteric and pompous language used in wine writing, pieces on the diminishing role of wine in contemporary culture, and blogs considering the pros and cons of various wine degrees and certifying bodies. It is a contested terrain to be sure.

It has been suggested that wine writers should regularly submit to a bit of soul-searching to address the concerns that are often voiced (by other wine writers) about the lack of substance in many wine reviews, and the impending dismissal of traditional wine critics’ knowledge and expertise. It would seem every generation of wine writer has had issues and concerns about the content, style, perspectives, and experiences necessary for wine writers to put forth quality written materials. Whether the charges are levied against the anti-intellectual movements of the hipster generation or the stodgy wine curmudgeon unable to leave the past behind, there is no shortage of criticism about wine criticism.

Since the retirement in 2019 of Robert Parker Jr., arguably one of the most influential wine critics of the past three decades, members of the wine writing community have attempted to take an inventory of the history of wine writing and criticism and consider the precarious future of wine criticism. Although there are some writers that suggest these types of inventories or self-reflective moments in the wine industry take place every few years, it seems like now is as good a time as any to consider the future of wine writing, and how the roles and writing styles of wine criticism should evolve to help the wine profession moves forward.

Types of Wine Writing

    There are many formats and genres associated with the world of wine writing worth considering. A distinction that needs to be made is the difference between writing whose primary purpose is marketing and advertising, and writing whose primary purpose is criticism, descriptive journalism, or historical review. Although one could argue that critics and journalists help sell as much wine as descriptions presented on a wine label or in advertisements, one could make the case that is not the primary function of wine criticism. Another distinction is between fiction and non-fiction, though I prefer to distinguish between narrative and expository writing which is based on the structure of writing itself and not a correspondence to truth or reality. Writing about wine may take the form of a textbook or reference material as much as the subject of a mystery  novel.

Expository Wine Writing

    Wine atlases, companions, encyclopedias, bibles, compendiums, memoires, biographies, historical treatises, catalogues, travel guides, technical manuals, anthologies, and course textbooks are just some of the formats in which expository wine writing appears in both digital and print-based publications. Many of these publications try to cover the world of wine in one volume, dividing up the world into regions, and wine into varietals. Most of these textbook-like publications begin with France and other Old World regions. The amount of space given to France and Italy alone equals the amount of space usually given to the rest of the wine-making world. A tad biased I would say for sure.

How-to-guides are a prominent form of wine writing that serve as introductory texts for many wine enthusiasts. There are books on how to pair wines with certain foods, how to taste wine like a professional, how to get wines at better prices, how to understand wine regions, how make wine at home, how to drink wine if you are a dummy, how to drive through Napa, and how to buy glassware and other accessories. All of these books are marketed towards novices and enthusiast alike and are designed to solve every possible problem you have with wine. 

In addition to the “how-to” book marketing craze, another ploy used by wine writers is the “made simple” argument. By reading their short book, you can become an expert in as little as, well 24 hours according to Jancis Robinson. Sort of flies in the face of the books that tell you it takes a lifetime to master wine and understand the nuances of wine regions, varietals, and wine making. Would we ever believe this is good for other professions? Become a teacher, doctor, or lawyer in 24 hours. Nope, doesn’t work. So, there must be some belief that what you are learning about wine is basic enough to take in quickly, or with a few tips you can fake expertise.

Travel writing and wine writing can be complementary genres, especially when the writer travels to well-known wine regions. In general, wine grows in pretty scenic places. Santa Barbara, CA; Central Otago, New Zealand; Rioja, Spain; Burgundy, France; Tuscany, Italy are all pretty beautiful places to visit. Many wine writers blend wine writing with travel writing to offer readers information about accommodations, setting up winery visits, places to eat, and wines to drink. Some writers produce memoires about their own travel to these scenic destinations telling tales of the places they have been, the wine makers they have met, the food they have eaten, and of course, the wines they have drank. Kermit Lynch’s book Adventures on the Wine Route is one of the most famous of the travel and wine memoire. American Wino by Dan Dunn takes a more humorous approach to the travel memoire. Ray Walker’s The Road to Burgundy tells the tale of his move to Burgundy to learn how to make wine from famous French wine makers

In addition to how-to books, reference books, and memoires, books that blend wine, wine makers, and history have become popular with wine enthusiasts. The House of Mondavi by Julia Flynn Siler features the life of the famous California wine maker and Wine and War by Don and Petie Kladstrup focuses on World War II and how the French worked to keep wine out of the hands of Hitler during the Nazi invasion of France.

A few books have also been written about the famous wine forger Rudy Kurwanian and his exploits selling fake wines to rich people and famous wine celebrities without their knowledge until he was finally captured and sent to prison. In Vino Duplicitas by Peter Wellman and The Billionaire’s Vinegar by Benjamin Wallace both focus on the forgery scandal that rocked the wine world in recent years.

An industry has sprung up around writing for tasting sheets, winery brochures, winery websites, and other forms of advertisements. From pamphlets passed out at wineries to advertisements in wine magazines, wine writers produce a great deal of writing to help sell wine and emphasize certain wineries, wines, and wine makers. This type of writing often has a more emotional focus, whereas extensive technical language appeals to the intellectual side of the brain. Pretty girls holding champagne bottles appeal to different things than lengthy descriptions of lemons, hay, minerality, jalapenos and pencil shavings on a wines tasting sheets.

In recent years, the number of blogs and websites devoted to wines in general and specific wines and wineries has exploded. A quick internet search for the word wine elicits about 2 million possible websites to explore. Trying to find your way around these sites can be daunting. And, trying to stand out as a writer in this densely populated field is even more challenging. I have listed my favorite blogs and websites in the Favorites section in the back of the book for more information.

    Without a doubt, the most interesting and hotly debated type of wine writing is the tasting note. Tasting notes and wine reviews are ubiquitous in the wine profession. Every sommelier, wine writer, wine critic, and advertiser has to write these descriptions or perform them orally tableside in a restaurant. These short notes serve simultaneously as both descriptor and advertisement. Due to their importance in the wine industry and as an important aspect of the discourse of wine, I have dedicated a whole chapter in tasting notes in this section of the book.

Fictional or Narrative Wine Writing

Mysteries set in wineries and vineyards seem to be one of the largest categories of fictional writing about wine. Mysteries about wine, art, and the south of France are part of the stories created by one of my favorite writers, Peter Mayle. In addition to Peter’s personal memoires about moving from England to living in Provence, he has written several mystery novels, including The Marseilles Caper and Chasing Cezanne that feature wine, art, and food that transport you to famous wine regions.

Two mysteries The Dark Vineyard and The Caves Of Perigord by Martin Walker feature the character Bruno Courreges, a chief of police in France who solves mysteries that involve wine and winery settings. Another novel, A Death in Tuscany by Dick Rosano is also a mystery set in an Italian wine region. There are many more mysteries, romance novels, and adventure stories that feature wine and wine regions as part of their plots.

So What?

There is so much writing associated with the world of wine that at times it seems overwhelming to keep abreast of the newest publications, wine critics and other major players in the wine profession. There are several prominent wine magazines, including Wine Spectator, Decanter, Wine Enthusiast, Wine and Spirits, and the World of Fine Wine to name just a few.

I have subscribed to some of these magazines for many years. In addition, I read excerpts from some of the prominent wine blogs on a regular basis and listen to podcasts from Disgorged, VinePair, Guildsomm, and others as I take my morning constitutional. I purchase a couple new books on sommeliers and wine tasting from time to time on Amazon. All combined, I feel like I keep abreast of some of the changes in the industry and am able to make decent wine selections when I dine out or head to a wine store. 

    It is easy to feel like you cannot possible keep up with all the writing about wine that is made available every single day. If you are not working in the wine trade or a decent restaurant, chances are much of the writing about wine that gets published alludes you. So be it. Read enough to learn something new and find ways to try some new wines. Being educated about wine is only worthwhile if it can be used to support your wine habit. I mean honestly, what else should all this knowledge be used for if not to enable oneself to drink better?